Grains of the yore (Part VII)
By Ama H. Vanniarachchy
Many other grams and cereals that were cultivated and consumed by ancient Sri Lankans were Undu (Black Gram), Mung (Green Gram), Varaa, Uluhaal (Fenugreek), Thala (Sesame), Godhuma (Wheat), Yava (Barley), Kangu, Varaka, Kudrasaka, Thanahaal (Foxtail Millet), Hamu or Amu (Kodo Millet), Kurakkan (Finger Millet), and Helawara.
What we understand through this information is that in the past, especially during the historic and medieval times in Sri Lanka, a vast range of grams and cereals were cultivated and consumed by Sri Lankans. On one hand, that was a more sustainable source of income, as people did not rely only on one main crop, and on the other hand, the variety of grains and cereals provided a great quantity of quality nutrition for people.
As we learn through ancient literature sources, archaeology evidence, and folklore, the average Sri Lankan villager led a humble lifestyle, engaging in much hard work such as agriculture, and various crafts that required physical labour. Therefore, having consumed a large variety of grains alternatively provided them with the nutrition they needed to maintain a healthy mind and body.
‘Bath’ was not only rice
According to ancient local texts, in ancient Sri Lanka Bath was prepared not only from rice (Oryzasativa) but also from cooked grains such as Amu, Meneri, Thana, Undu, and Vara. In Pali and Sinhalese chronicles, there are many stories about rice or Haal prepared from these and among them, Thanabath and Amubath have been quite popular. These grains were boiled and cooked with water to prepare rice and after cooking it was called Bath.
Sri Lankan scholar P.M. Senarathne writes in Purana Lankawe Gamdora Viththi that, Milk Rice was also prepared using some of these grains. Mung Kiribath was a milk rice made with Mung beans mixed with rice (Oryzasativa). Meneriata Kirbath was a milk rice made with Meneri seeds (Proso millet) mixed with rice (Oryzasativa).
Dhathusena’s last meal
An interesting yet sad story that mentions Undu Bath is narrated in the Mahavamsa, in the account of King Dhathusena (459 – 477 CE). King Dhathusena is one of the historical figures in Sri Lanka who faced a tragic and agonising end. Known for his valour and devotion to the country, due to political conspiracies and family disputes, the King faced an unfortunate death.
His eldest son Prince Kassapa, imprisoned his father and declared himself as king. One day, when the king was in prison, Kassapa, now king forced his father to reveal where he had hidden the wealth that he intended to give to his younger son Moggallana.
Understanding that this was a death trap Dhathusena thought that it would be relieving to see his good ‘old friend’ for the last time, have a bath in Kala Wewa (the magnum opus of King Dhathusena. According to local tradition, Dhathusena had a soul connection with his beloved tank Kala Wewa), and die. Therefore he sent a reply to Kassapa saying that if he was taken to Kala Wewa, he would show him where his wealth was hidden. Dhathusena was taken to the tank in a chariot.
The king’s ‘old friend’ was the chief incumbent of the Kala Wewa Temple. The monk who was delighted to meet his old friend kept a delicious meal to give Dhathusena. The meal was Undu Bath with the meat of the bird locally known as Lihiniya. The king was fed with the rice and meat and the monk advised him before his departure.
We do not know how the Undu Bath was prepared. Perhaps, rice (Oryzasativa) was mixed with Undu seeds boiled with water and seasoned with salt and other spices or herbs.
Porridge, flatbread, sweets, snacks, pittu, and oils were made of various grains
Porridge or Kenda was made from these grains sometimes using the flour of the grains and sometimes the seeds.
The flour of some of these grains such as Green Gram flour, Kurakkan flour, and Undu flour was used to make roti (flat bread), and various snacks and sweets.
Kurakkan roti has been a popular food among Sri Lankans from historic times till to date. Pittu is another food made of flour of various grains. Although today we mainly eat pittu made of rice flour and Kurakkan flour, in ancient times, Sri Lankans have eaten pittu made of other flours.
A delicious snack made of rice was Pori or Wilanda. Pori is made by frying wee. Wilanda is a delicious snack made by adding bee’s honey to Pori. According to local legends, Wilanda and Meepani (bee’s honey) were offered to the Buddha by Thapassu and Bhalluka.
Habalapethi is a highly nutritious snack as well as a kenda eaten by Sri Lankans since ancient times. It is made of rice. The rice (red or white kekulu rice) is boiled for hours and then sun-dried. The well-dried rice is then fried. This is then called Habalapethi. This is cooked with coconut milk and seasoned with a pinch of salt and eaten with treacle or honey.
Oil made from sesame seeds was the main oil used by ancient Sinhalese for cooking. According to Prof. Indrakeerti Siriweera, the use of coconut oil among Sri Lankans for cooking became popular after the 13th century. Sesame oil was not only used for cooking but also for beauty and health treatments as well as for lighting lamps.
Although data is scarce we could assume that oils were made from many of these seeds that were used for medical purposes, health and beauty care and to mix for paint and construction materials.
To be continued…
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