Untold Secrets of Our Food
By Ama H. Vanniarachchy
Sri Lanka’s culinary heritage is like a tapestry woven from threads of history, culture, and nature. It tells the story of a people whose identity is deeply connected to the land and its legacy. From ancient times, the island’s cuisine has been shaped by its environment, religious beliefs, and the ingenuity of its inhabitants.
The roots of Sri Lanka’s food culture go back thousands of years. Archaeological discoveries, such as those at the Citadel of Anuradhapura, reveal that early settlers, dating as far back as 900 BCE, were already practising agriculture, with rice as a central crop. These ancient people lived in harmony with their surroundings, developing advanced irrigation systems to cultivate their fields, ensuring that rice remained a staple in their diets.
Rice, however, is more than just food in Sri Lanka — it’s a symbol of life, prosperity, and spirituality. It has been revered as a divine gift, central to rituals and religious practices, especially within Buddhism. The connection between rice and spirituality is deeply embedded in the culture, with ancient stupas even reflecting the shape of a pile of paddy, emphasising the sacredness of this grain.
The phrase Wewai Dagabai, Gamai Pansalai encapsulates the essence of Sri Lankan civilisation. This saying, which translates to “The Tank, The Dagoba, The Village, The Temple,” highlights the interconnectedness of agriculture, religion, and community life. For thousands of years, this system sustained the island’s society, with rice at its heart.
Over time, the people of Sri Lanka developed a diverse agricultural system. While rice was the cornerstone, other grains, vegetables, and legumes played essential roles in their diet. The practice of chena cultivation, a form of shifting agriculture, allowed them to grow a variety of crops such as black gram, green gram and sesame, all of which were vital for sustenance.
The cultural significance of rice is also reflected in the language. The Sinhalese word for cooked rice, bath, originates from the Sanskrit word bhaktha, meaning food. Ancient texts mention seven main grains, known as sathwadarum dhanya, all of which were considered forms of bath when cooked. Among these, hal wee or al wee was particularly prized, often reserved for the elite.
Rice also found its way into various traditional dishes, such as kiri bath, or milk rice, a dish cooked in coconut milk and served during special occasions. Kiri bath is more than just a meal; it’s a symbol of good fortune and is often offered to the Buddha and Gods during religious ceremonies. Its history is long, with references found in ancient texts like the Thupavamsa and Mahavamsa.
But, the daily fare of the common people was more modest. Simple meals often consisted of rice accompanied by greens and a sour curry, while breakfast might be a dish called diyabath, made from leftover rice soaked in water overnight and mixed with coconut milk and spices. Despite its simplicity, this diet was deeply nourishing and suited to the hardworking lives of the ancient Sri Lankans.
Beyond rice, the Sri Lankan diet included a wide array of grains, vegetables, and fruits. Yams, jackfruit, and greens were common, while traditional home gardens provided a steady supply of essential ingredients. Large-scale farming also contributed to the island’s rich culinary diversity, with crops like coconut, palm, and sugarcane playing significant roles. Spices like mustard, turmeric, and black pepper were not only used for cooking but also for their medicinal properties.
Ancient recipes have been passed down through generations, preserving the flavours of the past. Dishes like kos eta kalu pol maluwa (cooked jackfruit seeds) and lunu bilimbi moju (sour bilimbi fruit pickle) showcase the creativity of Sri Lankan cuisine. Porridges made from various grains were a staple, providing a nutritious start to the day, while traditional drinks made from boiled herbs or fruit juices offered refreshing nourishment.
Sri Lanka’s culinary legacy is a vibrant tapestry, reflecting the island’s history, culture, and environment. From the early settlers of Anuradhapura to the sophisticated agricultural practices of later civilisations, the evolution of Sri Lankan food culture is a testament to the resilience and creativity of its people. Today, this legacy continues to influence the island’s cuisine, making it a celebration of flavours and traditions that are deeply rooted in the land and its history.
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